Gravel paths can look very attractive and can also provide an extra security measure for your home (the noise it makes will prove a deterrent to intruders). They are relatively easy to lay and also reasonably cheap. On the down side, weeds will soon grow up through the gravel if the path is not maintained properly.
The first thing you need to do is mark out your intended path using string or sand trickled through your fingers. This is not always necessary (e.g. if the path is contained between two wall, etc), but is essential if you plan to cut your pathway into a lawn. Once you have the path marked out, move along the edges with a spade and cut through the turf all the way along. Remove the turf and dig out the earth all the way along the path to a depth of around 100-150mm (4-6in). Tap the earth down with a spade to make it firm.
You now need to "edge" the pathway to stop the surrounding lawn falling into the path, and to stop the gravel spilling onto the lawn too much. If the path is straight you can use 100mm or 150mm wide timber battens, held in place with pegs on the inside at regular intervals. If your path is curved or irregularly shaped, you will need to buy flexible edging (such as that available from https://www.rite-edge.com/ ). Flexible edging sometimes comes with pegs, but if not you can just use wooden pegs.
You can also use cast concrete edging which need to be laid onto a bed of mortar. If you are using concrete edging, you might need to dig the edges of the path slightly deeper to allow for the mortar. Make sure the edging is held upright whilst the mortar sets. Concrete edging has the advantage of being much more decorative than the wooden or flexible kind, and is available in a variety of styles.
You are now ready to lay your hardcore (loose stones/very course gravel) base. This should fill around 1/3 of the depth of the hole. On top of this put down a layer of sand and course gravel and tamp it flat. You should now have a nice firm base for the gravel to sit on.
Tip:
This is a good point to mix up a watering can of weed killer and carefully cover the whole path with it. Make sure you use a rose on the watering can or you may wash away the base in places.
You can now take your chosen gravel (which is available in a variety of coarseness and colours) and start to lay the path. Once the path is filled, go over the whole length with a rake, rolling and smoothing the gravel until you have an even and firm surface. Ideally, the gravel should sit just below the top of the edging. As long as you take the time to maintain the path, this should now last for years to come.
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