Erecting Wooden Panel Fencing London

The first thing you need to do is to mark out the line of the fence. Drive a wooden stake into the ground at each end of the fence run and tie a taut string between them. You can now work off of this string to ensure that the fence runs in line. If your boundary is not straight, break the run down into smaller straight sections and repeat the marking out process for each section.

F W Collins & Son
020 78363964
14 Earlham Street
London
Robert Dyas Holding Ltd
020 73539675
167 Fleet Street
London
John Plank Ltd
020 76080074
17-18 Haywards Place
London
Robert Dyas Ltd
020 78360611
97 St Martins Lane
London
Robert Dyas Ltd
020 73880183
123 Tottenham Court Road
London
Jack Powell Stores
020 72269032
36 St Peters Street
London
Poole Waite & Co Ltd
020 72538117
3 Clerkenwell Road
London
W J Miller
020 78371176
55 Marchmont Street
London
Robert Dyas Ltd
020 74055246
4 High Holborn
London
Povey & Co Ltd
020 73871372
6 Leigh Street
London
Data Provided by:
 

Erecting Wooden Panel Fencing

Adding wooden close board fencing along the boundary to your property is not only good for privacy and security, if done properly and maintained well, it can also add to the appeal of your home. Before erecting any type of boundary fencing, check that you know where your boundary runs, and only erect the fence inside the boundary of your property.

Measuring and Marking Out

The first thing you need to do is to mark out the line of the fence. Drive a wooden stake into the ground at each end of the fence run and tie a taut string between them. You can now work off of this string to ensure that the fence runs in line. If your boundary is not straight, break the run down into smaller straight sections and repeat the marking out process for each section.

Digging The Post Holes

You can dig out post holes using a narrow shovel or a small hand trowel, but if you have a lot of holes to dig it is a good idea to hire or buy a Post-Hole Auger. This circular-bladed tool is twisted into the ground at the point where the post will sit, and then pulled out to remove a neat circle of soil. It is best to drive it in about 150mm before pulling it out and repeating until the hole is deep enough. Using a post-hole auger has the advantage of keeping the sides of the post hole quite solid, adding support to the post and concrete placed in the hole.

The depth and size of the post holes depends a lot on the height of the fence. As a general rule, try to make sure that the post holes are at least as deep as a quarter of the height that will be above ground. E.g. if the fence is 1.6m high, the post hole should be at least 400mm deep. If the soil surrounding the posts is not tightly packed, you should consider increasing the depth slightly. The holes also need to be at least twice the width of the post to allow a good footing of concrete. The first and last holes can be made slightly bigger so that you have a larger lump of concrete around them, especially if the end posts are not going to be fixed to a wall or other solid structure.

Erecting The Posts

Ram a layer of hardcore into the bottom of the hole (broken bricks, etc) to give the post some extra support. Slot the post into the hole and brace it using lengths of wood driven into ground at an angle and clamped or nailed to the post. An extra pair of hands to hold the post while you do this is helpful. Ensure the post is upright and not twisted in the hole before securing the braces.

Ram some more hardcore around the bottom of the post and then get ready to add the concrete. Quick-setting post mix is best, as this can be tipped into the hole dry with the water added afterwards. Always follow the manufacturers instructions carefully when using post mix. If you don't have post mix, make a general purpose concrete mix and add this to the hole. Always build up the concrete above the level of the surrounding ground and shape it to slope away from the post. This helps water to run off and not pool around the post...

Click here to read more from DIY Extra